KWONG FUNG GROUP

老外試食筆記 My Asian Plates

text . Cassandra Anderton  譯.編輯部

Let’s take the
Chinese culinary challenge!
Growing up in Kelowna, I wasn’t much aware of any other food that existed outside of what my mother put on the table. We were British in heritage, and although she served some ethnic foods, there was definitely nothing Asian in her repertoire.My family grew much of our own produce and kept chickens, sheep and pigs. Seafood was a rarity, as it was expensive and never that fresh unless you knew someone who fished the local rivers.  And rice?  Since my father grew potatoes, rice on the table was a personal insult.  Apparently spuds were the only starch we needed.
When I came to Vancouver my experience with Asian foods had previously been limited to the shopping mall food courts, where I sampled sugar-coated deep fried chicken balls and soggy and msg-loaded chowmein, I was eager to try all the new Asian food available to me, though I still mostly stuck to fairly common dishes where I knew most of the ingredients by name.
Although now I’ve become much more adventuresome, there are times where I am definitely challenged when it comes to Asian menu items. I have still never eaten sea urchin, abalone, or geoduck and many items at the markets remain foreign to me. In an effort to expand my knowledge of Chinese food, I ventured out to Zen, a restaurant in Richmond that was recently recognized by Jennifer 8 Lee in her book The Fortune Cookie Chronicles as “the best Chinese outside of China”.
To dine at Zen Fine Chinese Cuisine you must first make a reservation online, and choose your menu ahead of time.  Prices range from $38.88 - $95 per meal, depending on the tasting menu chosen. The hostess was of European descent, but the owner and chef, Sam Lau, is Chinese, and after all, we were here for the food.
Our first dish up was the jelly fish salad served with vinegar foam. The presentation was precious.  Lau had made a very flavourful dish with hints of sesame and the texture was delightfully crunchy. We then moved onto a whelk and curried seafood.  My companion had never heard of whelk (a large sea snail) and remarked that she hadn’t had curry in Chinese food before either. I assured her that it was edible and that curry was a frequent flavour that had migrated to China centuries ago.  We were both glad to have tried the new flavours, as this was the best dish of the night.
The next item on our menu was shark’s fin soup in young coconut, but even in the name of culinary adventure I will not eat shark, as it is an endangered species. We instead opted for chicken soup and dug into the coconut flesh that gently broke free from the side of its shell. “This was the kind of dining I could get used to”, my friend remarked. Neither of us had had soup straight from a coconut itself, or cooked coconut flesh.
After we picked the half lobster clean from its shell in the following course, we were then served a shredded chicken that was a bit of a shock.  This we could not eat. It was cold, fatty and with soft skin.  While I know it is a Chinese delicacy, this was something that two kids who grew up eating fairly western foods could not appreciate. 
The final dish included stir fried seafood with egg and a BBQ pork hamburger, which we would gladly eat again and again.
While we were more than full, we managed to finish the mildly flavoured Petit dessert pudding made with black bean.
We both agreed the meal was well executed, but at $160 for two, including tip, our next few Asian adventures might have to be executed by ourselves, at home.

中國美食大挑戰

家住卑詩內陸可隆拿,除了母親放在飯桌上的食物外,我對其餘食品的認識非常有限。原籍北列顛,母親雖有學煮些‘外國食譜’,卻從未煮過中國菜!
我家牧有豬、羊、雞等牲蓄,海鮮則屬罕物,一來貴,二來不新鮮,除非閣下所認識朋友中有愛往河湖釣魚的人。至於米飯?老父自種有薯仔,飯桌上有米飯對他來說是種取笑;何況,我們所需的澱粉質,均全在薯仔裡面!
來到溫哥華後,所接觸的中國菜,都是在商場食檔吃到的,例如炸糖衣雞球和既濕又用味精調味的炒麵,反而引起了我要試正宗東南亞食品的意欲,但仍只有膽量去品嚐能叫出名字來的材料菜餚!
今日的我,對食品的冒險態度已大增,但面臨亞洲菜,仍得戰戰競競,依舊未夠膽去試海膽、鮑魚、象拔蚌和一概怪模樣東西。
為了要擴展我對中國菜的認識,便約同好友,往不久前被美國作家 ennifer Lee 在其‘The Fortune Cookie Chronicles’一書中喻為‘國外最佳中餐’位于列治文的 Zen 餐廳去。
要去幫襯 Zen,先得上網頁訂位,並預先選好餐目。餐價由每位$38.88 至 $95。女待應是歐洲人,店主兼廚師 Sam Lau 當然是中國人,我們可不管樓面是誰,因到這兒來,主要是吃中國餐!
第一道菜是佈碟精緻的海蜇沙拉與香醋泡沫,隱現的芝麻香與脆嫩的口感,購成一碟美麗佳餚。第二道菜是咖哩海鮮伴巨螺肉。好友說從未見過巨螺;也未曾吃過用咖哩做的中國菜,我只好向她保證說螺肉美味可吃;咖哩在早期便已運往中國云云。兩人之後都高興自己勇於嚐新,事實證明,這咖哩海鮮螺肉乃當晚最美味的食品!
跟著的本來是一客椰子魚翅湯,惜我倆因鯊魚乃受保護動物而不肯吃牠,便轉為喝椰子雞湯,連椰肉也不放過!兩人從未嚐過用原個椰子盛的湯,更從未吃過椰子肉呢!女友說:“這類食品我可不介意多吃!”
吃罷從半只龍蝦挑出來的可口蝦肉後,待應端來一碟讓我倆張大眼睛的雞肉。帶一層軟綿綿雞皮的肉絲,既泠且油光滿碟、我倆對望一番後,只好放棄!
還好最後的一道菜是蛋花炒海產和一個用烤肉做的漢堡飽,教我倆大樂也,自然以行動表示之。該道迷你黑豆慕絲甜品上桌時,其實已很飽,但兩人一樣把味道清淡的慕絲吃完。
我倆均認同這是一頓演繹得很好的晚餐,但付過一百六十元的帳單後,心中已知曉,以下幾頓亞洲餐,還是自己在家做好了!

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